Cable Bolero - Stitchcraft 1943

from Woolly Thinking (Jane Waller & Susan Crawford)
adapted by Susan Crawford from the Jane Waller archive.

This garment was originally knitted in a fine 3 ply yarn and for a 32 inch chest.

We have used a 4 ply yarn, regrading the pattern for a 34 inch chest. The stitch pattern is extremely stretchy and does look very small when being knitted but stretches quite incredibly when worn and will fit from a 30-32 inch chest through to a 36 inch chest. The style is quite short but as there is no shaping you would only need to knit the body below the armhole as long as you require it, bearing in mind that more yarn will be needed.

Materials

Filatura di Crosa Zarina 100% extra fine merino wool (machine washable)
50gm - 181 yards/165 metres approx.
7 x 50gm balls shade 1510 - Main colour (M)
2 x 50gm balls shade 1724 - Contrast colour (C)

1 pair 4mm (US #6) needles and 1 extra 4mm (US #6) needles
1 cable needle
1 pair 3.25mm (US #4) needles
Stitch holders
Stitch markers
2 buttons

To fit size 32-36 inches (81-92 cm)

Actual back Measurement
(without stretching fabric) 13 inches (33 cm)

Length to armhole 12 inches (30.5 cm)

Finished Length 19.5 inches (49.5 cm)

Tension

26sts x 28 rows = 4 inches (10cm) using 4mm (US #6) needles over stocking stitch
In stitch pattern, tension is approx 24 sts to 4 inches (10cm) (6 sts to the inch (2.5cm)).

Abbreviations

Yfwd - yarn forward
K2tog - knit two together
Psso - pass slip stitch over
K3tog - knit three together
C5B - place next 3sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts then K3 from cable needle.
PM - Place marker
SM - Slip marker

stitch patern

Stitch Pattern

Row 1: P3, *K5, P3, rep from * to end.
Row 2: K3, *P5, K3, rep from * to end.
Row 3: P3, *K2, yfwd, K1, yfwd, K2, P3, rep from * to end.
Row 4: K3, *P7, K3, rep from * to end.
Row 5: P3, *K2, yfwd, Sl1, K2tog, Psso, yfwd, K2, P3, rep from * to end.
Row 6: as row 4
Row 7: as row 5
Row 8: as row 4
Row 9: P3, *K2, Sl1, K2tog, Psso, K2, P3, rep from * to end.
Row 10: as row 2
Row 11: P3, *C5B, P3, rep from * to end.
Row 12: as row 2

Three Needle Bind off

To work this method place matching stitches on correct needles and hold together with right side of work facing inwards. Working in knit sts, take RH needle through 1st from each needle and knit together, repeat with 2nd stitch off each needle, then cast off 1st over 2nd stitch. Continue to end of row.

Important pattern note

The number of stitches on needle changes during stitch pattern. Only count stitches to compare to pattern on rows 1 or 2.

Back

Using 4mm (US #6) needles and yarn M cast on 139sts.
Commencing with row 1 of pattern, work until back measures 12 inches (30.5cm)

Shape Armholes

Cast off 8sts at beg of next 2 rows then dec 1st at each end of every foll alt row until 111sts remain.
Work without further shaping until back measures 15 inches (38 cm) approx., ending with a wrong side row.

Neck Shaping

Next row: Patt 34 (leave these sts on holder), cast off next 43sts, patt 34.
Working on last 34sts only, and retaining pattern, dec 1st at neck edge of every 4th row until 28sts remain, ending with a wrong side row. Place sts on holder.

Work remain side to match and leave rem sts on a holder.

Left Front

Using 4mm (US #6) needles and yarn M, cast on 75sts, and work as for back until work measures 12 inches (36.5cm)

Shape Armholes

Cast off 8sts at armhole edge, the dec 1st on every foll alt row until 60sts remain.

Shape Neck

Cast off 8sts at neck edge, then dec 1st on every foll alt row until 28sts remain.
Work without further shaping until front is same length as back. Leave sts on holder.
Right Front
Work as left front but reverse all shaping.

Sleeves

With 4mm (US #6) needles and yarn C, cast on 74sts.
Next row: *K1, P1, rep from * to end.
Work in rib as set for 2 inches (5 cm) increasing 1st at end of last row.

Changing to yarn M, and commencing with row 1 of stitch pattern, work without shaping until sleeve measures 5 inches (13cm) finishing at end of row 2.

Shape Sleevehead

Cast off 8sts at beg of next 2 rows then dec 1st at each end of every foll alt row until 27sts remain, finishing at end of row 2. Cast off.

Join Shoulders

Using 4mm (US #6) needles, join shoulders using three needle bind off, taking care to match pattern.

Front Bands

Using 3.25mm (US #4)needles and yarn C, and with right side facing, pick up and knit 110sts along centre left front. Work 1 inch (2.5cm) in 1x1 rib as for sleeve cuff. Cast off loosely in rib. Repeat on right front.

Yoke

Using 3.25mm (US #4) needles and yarn C, and with right side facing, pick up and knit 56sts across right front (picking up sts at top of front band), 90sts across back and 56sts down left front (202sts).

Work in 1x1 rib as for sleeve cuff and AT SAME TIME decrease at shoulders as folls:

Rows 1 and 2: Rib
Row 3: Rib 55, PM, K3tog, PM, Rib 86, PM, K3tog, PM, Rib 55.
Rows 4 and 5: Rib
Row 6: Rib 54, SM, K3tog, SM, Rib 84, SM, K3tog, SM, Rib 54.

Continue in rib, dec on every 3rd row until 2 inches (5cm) have been worked, and at the same time make 2 buttonholes evenly spaced as shown on photo, as folls:

On RS row: Rib 3, cast off 3, rib to end.
Next row: Rib to cast off sts, turn work, cast on 4sts, bringing yfwd between 3rd and 4th cast on sts., turn work, rib to end.
Next row : Rib, working together 1st cast on st with original stitch next to it. (This prevents a gap appearing in the corner of your buttonholes).
When 2 inches (5cm) worked cast off in rib.

Making up

Darn in all ends.
Sew up side and sleeve seams. Insert sleeves into armhole and sew in place.
Sew on buttons.
Blocking is not recommended for this stitch pattern.

This pattern will be available in more sizes in 'A Stitch in Time' being published late autumn 2008, by knitonthenet