Jess

By Aruba Blue

Design Story

I wanted to design a garment that combined crochet and dressmaking, very like patterns you would see in Golden Hands or Stitchcraft in the 60's and 70's. I also wanted the design to have the same rustic feel of those patterns but also with careful choice of colours and fabric to look very modern and summery.

I also wanted the design to be able to be very flexible which is why I worked it around 3 inch squares rather than finished dimensions.

Materials:

3 x 50gm balls 4ply cotton (fingering,sock yarn) in rose
3 x50gm balls 4ply cotton (fingering, sock yarn) in green
3mm crochet hook (used throughout)
1 metre lining fabric
Matching thread
3 buttons

For skirt

2 metres coordinating fabric
Matching thread

Tension:

Each square should measure when blocked 3 x 3 inches (apart from the patches as they have an extra row added)

UK Abbreviations

ch - chain
dc - double crochet
tr - treble

US Abbreviations (red on pattern)

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet

To fit ages: this pattern can be used to fit any size of child (or adult), measure chest of intended wearer and calculate to the nearest 3 inches the finished size required. Divide this by three to see how many crochet squares you will need to fit round the body. Measure the wearer from underarm to waist again to the nearest 3 inches to see how many squares down you will need.

THE GARMENT IN THE PHOTOGRAPH HAS THE FOLLOWING NUMBER OF SQUARES

20 squares for bodice (10 in rose/green, 10 in green/rose. (see photograph) in two rows of 10.
One extra square in each colourway for patches.

Pattern notes

When working stripes for the waistband carry colour not in use up the side of the work. Be sure to block this garment to give a professional finish, as squares can be slightly uneven before blocking.

Pattern Square for Bodice

important note: 3ch, 1tr (1dc) 3ch joined with a s/s makes one 'petal'.

With 3mm hook and green (rose) make 5ch join with a s/s to make a ring.

1st row: Ch 1 wk 7 dc (sc) into ring join with a s/s

2nd row: * make 3 ch, 1tr (1dc) 3ch into next dc (sc) join with a s/s, s/s into next dc (sc). This makes the first 'petal'. The slip stitches separate the petals. Rep from * 7 times join with a s/s. Fasten off green (rose).

3rd row: Change colour.
Using rose (green) join with a s/s, ch 3 wk 1tr (dc) 2ch, 2 tr (dc) into same sp.
*work 2tr (dc) into centre tr (dc) of next petal 2ch, 2tr (dc) into same sp. (This starts to make corner shape of square.) Wk 1 ch 1tr (dc) into centre tr (dc) of next petal 1ch**. Rep from * to ** until row is completed join with a s/s to first 3ch made.

4th row: Continue with rose (green), s/s to next 2ch corner space *wk 3tr (dc) 2ch, 3tr (dc) into this space, 1ch 1tr (dc) into next sp, 1ch 1tr (dc) into next sp, 1ch**
Rep from * to **. Join with a s/s.

5th row: Wk 1dc (sc) into each st and sp all round the square, (when you get to the 2ch spaces in the corners work 2 dc (sc) to keep the square shape. Join with a s/s fasten off.

Pattern square for patches

Make one in each colourway (rose/green, green/rose), as bodice square. Then change colour and work a row evenly in dc (sc) to contrast the patches, fasten off.

Waistband

Using green make 116 ch (or chain long enough to fit length of bodice stretched slightly). Miss first ch wk 1 dc (sc) in each ch to end.
Wk 2 more rows of dc (sc) in green. (Don't forget to include 1 ch for turning at the end of every row.)
Join in rose wk 2 rows of dc (sc).
Join in green wk a further 3 rows of dc (sc). Fasten off.

Straps

Make one in rose and one in green.
Make 51 ch wk 1 dc (sc) in second ch from hook, wk 1 dc (sc) in each ch to end wk a further 2 rows. Fasten off.

Making Up

Darn in all loose threads neatly.
Block squares by pinning to a blocking board or old quilt, dampen squares with tepid water, ease into shape. Leave to dry. Join squares together in two rows, alternating colours as in photograph, by sewing very fine slip stitches on the wrong side of the work. I split the yarn I was working with and used 3 strands to sew the squares together. Leave the squares as a strip as the dress fastening is on the side of the bodice. Attach waistband at this point to lower edge of bodice.

Top Edging

With right side facing starting at the right hand corner wk 2 rows of dc (sc) in rose all across the bodice top.

Skirt

Decide on skirt length you are happy with (best thing is to measure a skirt that is the length you want), add approx 2 inches to this length and cut fabric lengthwise - you should now have a 2 metre long strip of fabric at skirt length.
Knot end of thread and run long tacking stitches along top length of skirt fabric.
Knot other end. Lay bodice out in front of you and gather skirt up by pulling thread at both ends until fabric is same width as bodice. Tie new knots in thread to hold gathers in place. With right sides of fabric together, fold skirt in half at side seam and sew together until about 1.5 inches from top. Fold these remaining raw edges over and hem.

Put skirt to one side.

Bodice Lining (Optional)

Fold lining fabric in half longwise and lay bodice on top. Pin in place and cut out fabric around bodice (including waistband). The top of the lining is where the fabric is folded over. Ensuring fabric is inside out, and still folded in half, sew short side together, giving you a double fabric piece the same size as the bodice, joined on three sides. Press unsewn bottom edges over by about 1 inch. Turn right way out and pin to inside of bodice, making sure top of lining is below bodice edging. Slip into place on side and top seams.
Pin skirt into place between layers of bodice lining. Sew firmly into place through bodice and first layer of lining. Pin inside layer of lining over raw edges at top of skirt. Slip stitch into place.

Button Loops

Using crochet hook and colour yarn of your choice, make three button loops using chain stitch on side front edge of bodice. Work an additional loop at side front edge of waist band.

Straps and Patches

At this point it is best to try dress on intended wearer. Pin straps to fit then sew in place.
Likewise with patches. Position on skirt whilst on wearer, pin in place then sew to skirt. Pin hem of skirt to length required. Sew.

Sew buttons in place on side back edge of bodice and waistband.

You can find out more about Aruba Blue at getneedled.blogspot.com